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The holiday season in Calabria isn’t just about lights and presents--it’s more about family, history, and deep-rooted traditions that have been passed down for generations.
If you’re lucky enough to be in Calabria during the holidays, you’ll find yourself immersed in a warm, vibrant, and delicious celebration of life. Let’s take a stroll through some of the region’s most cherished holiday customs.
1. The Magic of Nativity Scenes (Presepi)
Forget inflatable snowmen or giant Christmas trees--Calabria’s heart beats for presepi, or nativity scenes. Almost every town, church, and home sets up intricate displays depicting the birth of Christ, often featuring handcrafted figurines. Some towns even go the extra mile with presepi viventi (live nativity scenes), where locals dress up and reenact the story, turning the streets into living history.
2. Feast of the Immaculate Conception (December 8th)
The holiday season kicks off with this religious celebration. Families gather for Mass, followed by large feasts. It’s a day of spiritual reflection, but also one for culinary indulgence, with tables overflowing with traditional Calabrian dishes.
3. The Sounds of Zampognari
One of Calabria’s most unique holiday experiences is the zampognari--shepherds playing bagpipe-like instruments called zampogne. These musicians, dressed in traditional attire, walk from village to village playing Christmas carols, filling the air with a nostalgic, almost mystical sound that echoes through the mountains.
4. Food, Food, and More Food!
Let’s be honest--no Calabrian holiday tradition is complete without a feast. Some must-try dishes and dolci (sweets) include:
Cuzzupa or Pitta ‘nchiusa: Sweet, braided bread often shaped into festive designs
Struffoli: Fried dough balls coated in honey and sprinkles
Pignolata: Another type of honey-drenched fried dough balls
Baccalà (Salted Cod): A classic Christmas Eve dish, often served with olives, capers, and tomatoes.
5. La Vigilia di Natale (Christmas Eve)
Christmas Eve in Calabria is all about family and the cenone, a grand dinner often featuring multiple courses of fish and seafood. Many families still follow the tradition of the Seven Fishes dinner, a symbolic feast representing abundance and religious significance. After dinner, families attend midnight Mass, followed by opening gifts.
I (Su) experienced my first cenone last year in Davoli with my fiance's family. It was, in fact, my first large Italian family dinner! It was full of laughter, warmth, and, of course, delicious food!
Afterward, we attended midnight mass. Though I'm not Catholic, I appreciated the magic of the hour, and the priest was a great storyteller!
6. The Bonfire Tradition
In some rural Calabrian towns, you’ll find focaré--large bonfires lit in the main square. These gatherings bring the community together, symbolizing light, warmth, and hope for the new year. People sing, dance, and share stories around the fire, creating an atmosphere of togetherness.
7. Epiphany and La Befana (January 6th)
Calabrians extend their holiday celebrations to the Epiphany, when the Befana--a friendly, witch-like figure--delivers sweets to children. Legend has it that she was invited by the Three Wise Men to visit baby Jesus but got lost and has been delivering gifts ever since. It’s a whimsical end to the holiday season, marked by parades and local festivals.
A Season of Togetherness
The holiday season in Calabria is more than just festive lights and big meals--it’s a time to reflect on family, community, and centuries-old traditions that continue to bring people together.
Whether you’re marveling at a presepe, savoring pignolata, or dancing around a focaré, the spirit of Calabria will make you feel like you’ve found a second home.
If you’re looking for an authentic, heartwarming holiday experience, Calabria is where you’ll find it. Buone Feste! 🎄✨
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